Hiking Velebit: A Short Visit to Croatia’s Wild Mountain Range
Velebit is the largest mountain range in Croatia, stretching about 145 km along the Adriatic coast. What makes it so unique is the diversity of its terrain and the spectacular views over the islands. The range is usually divided into three parts: Northern Velebit (a national park), Central Velebit, and Southern Velebit, which includes Paklenica National Park—very popular among climbers.
I haven’t spent much time on Velebit so far, but that’s something I intend to change soon. On a recent trip, I made a short stop in Central Velebit—just a day and a half on my way to the coast, with no particular plans and all on my own. That little visit made me realize how special this mountain really is. So different from the Alps and other high mountains, Velebit feels raw, quiet, and still relatively untouched by mass tourism. I actually hope it stays that way.
The two hikes I managed to do were unforgettable—not only because of the stunning scenery, but also because I was completely alone on the trails. Late summer is usually a perfect hiking season, so I expected to meet at least a few other hikers. Instead, I had the trails entirely to myself. I didn’t mind—hiking solo doesn’t bother me—but it was a surprising and rare experience.
Arrival in Baške Oštarije
I arrived in Baške Oštarije on Wednesday late afternoon and parked my car on a dirt road opposite Hostel Baške Oštarije, where I planned to stay for two nights. At the end of the road were two charming houses in typical Velebit style. A woman was gardening outside, so I asked if I could leave my car near her place.
After my hike, I had a short chat with her, admiring her beautiful vegetable garden. She told me that although she lives in Zagreb, this was her birthplace, and she and her brother built the two houses to enjoy summers in the mountains. She kindly showed me their well with fresh drinking water and even gave me bottles to fill up for my hike the next day. Encounters like this always make the experience more personal and memorable.
The Legendary Premužićeva Trail
Baške Oštarije is a popular spot because it’s close to the end of the famous Premužićeva Trail, a 57 km hiking path that stretches from Zavižan in Northern Velebit all the way to Baške Oštarije in Central Velebit. I hiked it with friends four years ago, and it’s one of the most remarkable trails I’ve ever done.
Built between 1930 and 1933 by engineer Ante Premužić, the trail is considered a masterpiece of dry-stone construction, blending seamlessly into the karst landscape. It offers breathtaking views of the Adriatic Sea and nearby islands.
But this time, Premužićeva wasn’t on my plan. I hiked it once and hope to do it again.
A Sunset Hike to Kiza
With the day coming to an end, I chose a shorter route to Kiza (1274 m), one of the most striking peaks in this part of Velebit. Famous for its sharp limestone ridges and wide-open views, it’s a rewarding hike even if you only have a couple of hours.
The trail first led me through dense forest before opening up to rocky terrain that required a bit of scrambling. It took less than an hour to reach almost the top. I didn’t climb the final section—partly because of my knee, partly because I was alone and the last stretch requires ropes and more effort. But even without summiting, the views were beyond words.
At sunset, the landscape glowed with golden light—the islands scattered across the sea, the rugged ridges around me, and the stillness of the mountains. I sat down for a while, simply soaking it all in.
Sometimes, that’s the best part of hiking: not rushing to the top, but allowing yourself to just be there, quietly, with the mountain.
Descending from Kiza was a bit scary because I entered the forest part of the trail just shortly before dark and it just then occurred to me that there might be bears in this forest and this was just the perfect time for them! (The lady whom I talked to later told me there were no bears in this area, but still, Velebit is known for bears).
I drove back to Baške Oštarije to the hostel, checked in and had some wonderful “Velebit style” pasta with bacon and cream. The hostel – usually busy during the hiking season but probably only at weekends – was completely empty (only the restaurant was busy), so I had the large sleeping room that can accommodate ten or more people just for myself. It was very comfortable.
In the evening I planned my hike for the next day. I wanted a longer hike because I had the whole day, but still, not too extreme with elevation because of my knee. I decided to go south from the hostel, on the Veliki Sadikovac peak and maybe Konjevača, a kind of circular trail that would lead me back to the hostel.
Towards Southern Velebit
Shortly after breakfast and a brief rain shower I started to hike, it was almost 8 in the morning. I’m afraid of snakes (the poisonous horn vipers are often found in the Velebit region), so I always use hiking poles. Since I was alone, I had a variation of fears coming and going, vipers, bears, fall etc. but was comfortable enough to do the hike. The trail was stunning, first the moderate climb to Sladovačko brdo with 1241 m of altitude and beautiful views, then second climb to Veliki Sadikovac with 1286 m, where the views were even more beautiful. The sky was blue, no sign of upcoming rain, a bit windy on the peaks, just perfect.
Sladovačko brdo and Veliki Sadikovac
Konjevača
Descending from Veliki Sadikovac I lost the right path. Instead of going towards Konjevača I chose the wrong path so I had to return to the top and find the right way. The path led me through meadows into the forest again and this was the point when I got a bit scared, being there all alone in the deep forest, thinking how likely it was to run into a bear. So I started to sing, but I am very, very bad at singing and could actually remember only one song from my childhood about some blueberries (how convenient!), which I repeatedly sang about 20 times! I thought this will scare the bears away for sure.
Then I finally came out of the forest and there was a crossing that indicated a climb of one hour to get to the top of Konjevača (1381 m). The climb was steep and steady but in the shadow of the forest. I had a hard time to focus on the climb so that I forgot about the bears. I think it took me a bit less than one hour to get to the top and the views were so rewarding that I event stopped thinking about the same steep descent that was not going to be good for my knee. It was windy on the top, but I sat down to watch and feel this beauty and enjoyed a tuna salad from my backpack as it was just the right time for lunch.
I had to be careful on the descent because of my knee but in about half an hour I was back at the crossing. It was around 2 p.m. and I thought that I will rather save some hours of hiking descending further towards the village Brušane than go towards the trail which would get me back to my hostel. The first option was a bit more than one hour and the second a bit more than 3 hours. The only downside of the first option was that I was going to end the hike on a regular road with app. 6-7 km to go further to Baške Oštarije, so I had to hitchhike.
The hunting lodge
I opted for the descent to Brušane which was not really exciting until I came down and saw some structures looking like an abandoned shelter or hut. Looking closer I noticed this was a hunting lodge, but there was nobody, it was closed. There were tables and benches and a water trough with running water. Two little kittens were looking quite surprised to see me. And then I saw some bottles of Velebitsko beer cooling in the water trough and above it was a bottle opener. It was just like a miracle because over the last hour I couldn’t help but thinking how good it would feel to have a nice cold beer. I didn’t hesitate, enjoyed the beer and left some euros on the bench.
After the beer break I walked some 15 minutes to get to the road with the sign Brušane. I simply asked a local guy who just arrived by car in a yard close to the spot where I was standing and trying to hitchhike, to give me a ride to the hostel in Baške Oštarije. The dear old man was happy to help as he had nothing else to do. Back at my hostel and after a nice shower and change of clothes I had another delicious meal – the “Oštarian” style cutlet stuffed with ham and cheese (and a Velebitsko beer, what else).
The hike stats: 14.5 km, 1,000 m elevation gain and total elapsed time (with breaks) app. 8 hours.
And that was it for this time, I cannot wait to be back, although my knee suffered more than I could imagine (when writing this, my knee is still swollen after 3 days). Anyway, the hostel in Baške Oštarije is a comfortable and convenient place to stay when doing hikes in Central Velebit.