Gran Canaria
After visiting the Azores in 2024, Olga and I decided to choose another trail running event with spectacular views—ideally on an island again. We settled on the popular Transgrancanaria on Gran Canaria, the largest of the Canary Islands. The event offers various distances, and we opted for the 48K, one of the bestsellers.
The event sold out in just three days, so we were lucky to secure our spots. With our registration complete, we had plenty of time to book flights and accommodation. Since the race takes place in late February, it was the perfect opportunity to escape to somewhere sunny.
The best flight connection from Zagreb was to Lanzarote, so we decided to spend a few days there after the race. But first, we landed in Gran Canaria and booked accommodation in Las Palmas.
We arrived late in the evening and the next morning headed out on a road trip. Our first stop was Maspalomas on the southern coast—home to the event centre and the race finish line—where we picked up our race bibs. We visited the famous beach and sand dunes (yes, they are doing there camel rides!), then continued our trip north via a scenic mountain road popular among cyclists. The views of the canyons were stunning. We stopped for a café canario (espresso with condensed milk), strolled through the picturesque village of Fataga, and later enjoyed a delicious lunch of goat stew with Canarian potatoes.
Las Palmas proved to be a great base. Our place was near Vegueta, the charming old town with its cathedral and the famous dog statues across the square.
Race day began early. Our bus to the mountain town of Tejeda, where the race started, left while it was still dark. The 1.5-hour ride on winding roads was probably the worst part of the entire event—I felt quite sick. But once we arrived in the mountains, the cool air made for perfect running weather. The atmosphere at the start was fantastic.
The trail itself was beautiful and varied: lush forests, exposed canyon paths, rocky tracks—all with breathtaking views. But it was also challenging. With 1,000 metres more descent than ascent, the steep, rocky terrain and hot sun made the course tough. The final stretch before the finish was especially painful on the feet. I completed the 48K in nine hours—more hiking than running—but it was an incredible way to explore the island’s rugged interior and landmarks like Roque Nublo.
We had one more day in Gran Canaria, which we used for another road trip—this time northeast of Las Palmas. We stopped in Agaete, a coastal town where the ferry to Tenerife departs, then continued to Gáldar (Gran Canaria’s former capital), and the picturesque town of Teror, where we had lunch. On the way back, we visited Barranco de las Vacas and the Guayadeque Ravine, home to traditional cave houses.
The next morning started with a short jog in Las Palmas—peaceful, until disaster struck. The glass wall in the shower collapsed on me, causing a scene worthy of Hitchcock’s Psycho, with blood everywhere. Thankfully, I escaped with just shallow cuts and didn’t need medical help, but I was in shock when I boarded the flight to Lanzarote.
Lanzarote
Our accommodation in Lanzarote was in the quiet village of Tinajo, nestled inland among black volcanic hills and calderas. I liked the island immediately. Its stark black landscape, dotted with white houses and minimal vegetation (aside from volcanic vineyards), felt dramatically different from Gran Canaria.
After settling in, we had a beer on the terrace and then went in search of lunch. We found a popular local restaurant in Tinajo, enjoyed a great meal, and set off to explore. Driving past Lanzarote’s famous wineries, we stopped for a glass of white wine—which turned out to be excellent. The roads, much like in Gran Canaria, are popular with cyclists.
We visited San Bartolomé—completely empty and lined with white houses and distinctive chimneys—then continued to Teguise, where carnival festivities were in full swing. We even watched a show under a big tent in the town square.
The next morning, we took advantage of our location and jogged from our house to the trail leading to Caldera Blanca, a massive volcanic crater. As we reached the top, strong winds made it tricky to circle the rim, but the hike—about 9 km with 400 m of elevation—was one of the most memorable parts of our trip.
Later, we visited LagOmar, the legendary house once owned (briefly) by Omar Sharif. He fell in love with it while filming on the island, bought it—and then lost it in a poker game. Designed by César Manrique and José Soto, the house is an architectural marvel and well worth a visit.
We then headed to Puerto del Carmen, a typical tourist hub by the sea. Unfortunately, our lunch there was quite forgettable. Afterward, we walked along Playa de Janubio’s black sand and ended the day in Playa Blanca, where I finally went for a swim.
On our last day, we hiked up Montaña Blanca, enjoying panoramic views from the summit. We then explored Las Grietas, narrow volcanic fissures popular on Instagram. Our next stop was Cueva de los Verdes, an awe-inspiring lava tube known for its unique acoustics. Only 2 km of the cave is open to tourists, but it’s an unforgettable experience.
We continued to Jameos del Agua, another César Manrique masterpiece, then headed to Orzola on the island’s northern tip for a fantastic lunch. We admired the view of La Graciosa island from near Mirador del Río and ended the day with a walk in Arrecife, Lanzarote’s rather unexciting capital.
To finish on a high note, we visited two wineries: El Grifo, the island’s oldest, where we tasted an excellent semi-sweet white wine, and Bodega Stratvs, known for its Listán Negro red.
I wouldn’t mind returning to Lanzarote—there’s still plenty to see, and I’d love to explore it by bike next time.